Cummins engine installed in ramcharger

The Stuff it needs:Needs body work pretty bad. The only rot is a small hole in drivers rocker and over the left rear wheel well.

Doors and fenders have zero rust. The steering intermediate shaft is not loose, but makes some noise at the rag joint. The odometer does not work.

All the controls, evaporator core and condenser are there and there is plenty of room for the compressor. Cruise control is hooked up and was working, but it stopped and I never bothered to look into it.

Needs rear brakes. I have been driving this truck almost daily for about two years now and it has been nothing but reliable. Four wheel drive works great. I am only selling it because I need the money for home repair.

It would be nice to see this thing go to someone who wants to finish it. I am sure that I am missing something. Flyin6 Administrator Posts: I have been assembling a compilation of general information about how to safely and smartly 'eliminate' the factory computer PCM from our classic Dodge Rams, particularly on the Cummins-powered Rams. This information is specifically intended to help those doing a Cummins conversion, however I feel the information could be beneficial to anyone with an older Ram with a PCM, or who like me considers 'wiring' to be their nemesis.

First, as you all know, these older-than-dirt computers are dying every day. The newest of them is now 20 years old. With the three Ramchargers I've done conversions on, my goal was to eliminate the computer controls by replacing both the sensors and receivers for the factory gauges and switches with typical off-the-shelf components found at most local parts stores or online, while also trying to retain all of the factory gauges.

When we did Oxx, we also went through all of the legal requirements to officially convert the title to reflect the vehicle now runs on diesel. For the most part, every single bit of factory Ram electronic ignition and emissions equipment was no longer needed.

I'll address the main components individually. The FSO is what 'allows' fuel to flow, or not. When you turn the key to run and start the FSO is sent 12v switched power from the main harness via the key switch, which allows the injection pump to send fuel to the injectors. When you turn the key off, 12v power is removed and the fuel is cut off, shutting down the engine.

This is the normal operating procedure for a Cummins. Naturally, having 12v switched power going to the Cummins engine harness and particularly to the FSO is essential. This doesn't require any special switches, but it can be overlooked during a conversion. Also, the factory used a spade terminal to attach to the FSO — we highly recommend replacing the spade terminal with a proper sized fish eye terminal and using the proper nut to retain the 12v wire securely to the FSO.

Otherwise the spade terminal can wiggle off and cause a sudden and immediate engine shut down. Grid Heaters toaster.

The toaster is another matter. From the factory, it is controlled via the computer, and received signals from a couple sensors in the intake manifold. The computer is what tells the grid heater to cycle off and on during warm-up only when it is cold enough outside , and after things warm up the computer tells the heater to stop cycling. You will notice the volt meter drop significantly when this is occurring.

This is normal. But, the engine does not need the toaster to cycle itself off and on for 5 minutes during warm-up. Soon as the engine is started and running a few seconds, the toaster is no longer needed. Many folks disconnect it all together. But, I like having it, so I simply took the 12v signal wire to the toaster and redirected it to my dash to a momentary switch, which only activated when I push it, and I control for how long and how often.

On the coldest days we recommend using the heater for about 15 seconds, release, and turn the key. That is normal.

After that, drive on — no more heater required. KSB Kaltstartbeschleuniger. The KSB is used as a cold start aid. When in the engine rpms come up, the substantial timing advance tapers off to a much smaller measure of advance. There are two versions the early non-intercooled, and the later intercooled , and it is important to understand the differences. The non-intercooled trucks have a "wax motor" that opens the bypass passage in the KSB unit. It may also have a voltage reducing resistor, but I am not sure.

The wax motor style does not open instantly, but relies on an approximate warm-up delay to simulate the time required for the truck to warm up. The earlier When the engine is started the valve is already open, increasing timing. As the engine warms the pellets melt and the valve closes. This type requires 12v to close and function correctly. Without 12v power, the KSB will remain on, which can be hard on the pump. The Upon starting the engine, injection pump internal case pressure will advance the timing.

If unplugged, the KSB will simply not function, which will only possibly make a difference when cold. Under 90 deg. Over 90 deg. The timing advances normally thru internal porting, and sliding plunger. It is not necessary for the KSB to be powered up, but it can help by advancing the fuel injection a bit.

I am working on exactly how the factory powered the KSB, and so far it is via a sensor in the intake manifold behind the turbocharger air inlet. The factory electronic speedometer is tricky. So far, my speedometer is still using the computer to tell itself what to register.

As well, the cruise also gets signal from the speedo, so the speedo and cruise require the computer to work. Edit: Word on the street is the computer only provides a ground signal for the speedometer circuitry to function.

We the RCC 'collective' are looking into how to determine exactly which wire this is etc and will post back once we isolate it, ground it, and prove functionality.

If so, then the speedo only needs 12v power and a rotating tranny shaft, and the speedo and trans hardware and wiring. Air Conditioning. Now, the trick is not leaving it on all the time — it can ice up.

We simply cycle the toggle switch manually. The timed relays are designed to remain on for a predetermined amount of time. Once you push the button, it turns on and remains on for however long the internal timer is set. Install such a button with a blue LED on the dash and you will know it is on, and it will automatically turn itself off, letting the compressor warm up a bit. We like this simple adjustable unit from Waytekwire.

It has a minute adjustable timer — pretty slick. There is no classic old-school voltage regulator, so, we install one. The wiring is fairly straight forward. Please see the attached diagram. The same 12v switched power originating from the fuse block will also go the center post on the regulator, continuing on to one of the alternator field wires.

The other field wire will go to the outer post on the regulator. We also highly recommend installing a completely fresh heavy gauge cable from the alternator to the battery. The factory connecter joint buried deep inside the wiring harness near the brake booster likes to corrode and short out — not a great way to fly. Fuel Filter Heater. Fuel is critically important to any engine, especially true for diesels.

Having clean, warm fuel is important as diesel fuel flows much better when warm, and can get thick and even gel up and not flow at all if very cold outside. To that end, the factory utilized a simple fuel heater element.

On the early 12 Valve engines, the factory fuel heater looks a lot like a hockey puck with two little wires sticking out of it. However…as is the case with the factory PCM, the fuel heater element and WIF sensor are also becoming extinct, and there are no new versions being reproduced.

This happens because wax crystals inherent within diesel fuel has solidified and clogged a port. Doors and fenders have zero rust. The steering intermediate shaft is not loose, but makes some noise at the rag joint. The odometer does not work. All the controls, evaporator core and condenser are there and there is plenty of room for the compressor.

Cruise control is hooked up and was working, but it stopped and I never bothered to look into it. Needs rear brakes. I have been driving this truck almost daily for about two years now and it has been nothing but reliable. Four wheel drive works great. I am only selling it because I need the money for home repair. It would be nice to see this thing go to someone who wants to finish it. I am sure that I am missing something.

Any questions please ask.